Description
DUMFRIES-SHIRE is known as one of the most beautiful of the Scotish counties. It lies along the north shore of the Solway, with one portion of it adjoining Cumberland, and others bordering with the counties of Roxburgh, Selkirk, Peebles, Lanark, Ayr, and Kirkcudbright. Its three principal rivers, the Esk, the Annan, and the Nith, descending from the hills on the north, may be said to divide the county into parallel vales, which are watered by these rivers and their tributaries, and respectively termed Eskdale, Annandale, and Nithsdale– the lower parts opening towards the Solway Frith to an extensive plain of slightly varied surface. The county is said to extend from east to west 55 miles, and from north to south 32 miles, having an area of 1800 miles, or 1,520,000 acres, of which, in 1839. about 212,000 were cultivated, 320.000 uncultivated, and 620,000 unprofitable; but it is to be observed that there are slight differences as to the exact extent and boundaries of the district. In 1831 it contained 43 parishes, and is a provincial Synod, composed of the five Presbyteries of Dumfries, Annan, Lochmaben, Penpont, and Langholm.

The surface of the county is very irregular, one-half of it being mountainous, a portion midland, consisting of low hills, ridges, and vales, and the plain on the sea coast. The principal mountains are Hartfell, the highest, said to be 3300 feet above the level of the sea; Lowther, near Leadhills, 3130 feet; Black Larg, on the borders of Ayrshire, 2890 feet; Ettrick Pen, in Eskdalemuir, 2220 feet; Queensberry, 2140 feet; Cairn Knowe, near Drumlanrig. 2180 feet; Wisp Hill, in Ewes, 1836 feet, Holehouse Hill, 1500 feet; Knock-Crag, 4010 feet; and Langholm Hill, 1200 feet. The rivers and their tributaries are elsewhere noticed. There are numbers of lakes, nine of which are in the parish of Lochmaben, and the mountain lake Loch-Skeen, near the head of Moffat Water, 1300 feet above the sea, supplies the well known cascade called the Grey Mare's Tail. Game of all kinds is very plentiful; hares are numerous, but the red deer and the capercailie are now seldom found. The county presents all kinds of rich, varied, and mountain scenery; the natural woods and plantations may be said to be extensive, though the district in the higher ridges is generally bare; and the seats of the nobility and gentry are numerous.

As it respects minerals, limestone is wrought in Eskdale, Nithsdale, and Annandale; coal is wrought only at the two extremities of the county, Sanquhar and Canonbie, a great portion of the district being supplied with coal from Cumberland, and Lanark and Ayr shires; at Wanlockhead, near Leadhills, are extensive lead-mines, from which, during a period of fifty years, 47,420 tons of lead have been procured. There are appearances of lead in Langholm, Johnstone, Penpont, and St Mungo; gold is occasionally found in the mountains at Wanlockhead in veins of quartz, or washed down into the sand of the rivulets. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth three hundred men were employed by Sir Bevis Bulmer, who in a few summers collected it to the value of L.100,000. An antimony mine was discovered at Glendinning, and regularly wrought. Ironstone exists in some places in spheroidal masses, and in bogs and beds; gypsum occurs in thin veins. There are several mineral springs, especially those near Langholm, Annan, and Lochmaben, and about a mile from Moffat is the celebrated mineral water similar to that of Harrowgate.

The climate of Dumfries-shire is warm, on account of the lowness of the ground adjoining the Solway Frith; in the mountainous districts it is often cold and bleak. The soil varies throughout, from rich alluvial on the banks of the chief rivers, to light, sandy, and naturally wet. Many estates are held immediately of the Crown, and others of a subject superior. The arable farms are generally let on leases of fifteen, nineteen, or twenty-one years; sheep farms are ordinarily from nine to fifteen years. Various forms of lease are in use. The rental of a great portion of the land has been doubled since the year 1790. A variety of crops are cultivated, and the practice of farmers as it respects rotation is different, many suiting themselves to the different soils. Oats and potatoes are most extensively cultivated, the latter much used infattening cattle and pigs, and an immense quantity of hams and bacon are cured for the Liverpool, London, and Newcastle markets. Most of the modern farm buildings are commodious and well arranged. Agriculture is in a most improved condition, particularly by the general growing of turnips. The cattle are chiefly of the Galloway breed, and the sheep of the Cheviot and blackfaced; a great number of pigs are kept by the farmers and cottars, and bacon may be considered the staple commodity of the county. There are several district farming societies.

The remains of antiquities are very numerous. These are Druidical temples, British forts and encampments, Roman ronds and stations, cairns, old towers, castles, moats, or artificial mounds, and other memorials of former generations. The Selgovse were the most ancient inhabitants, and in the time of the Romans the county formed part of the province of Valen-tia. Till the reign of James VI. Dumfries-shire was the scene of many battles, feuds, and forays, its situation rendering it liable to English incursions, and to predatory warfare. Its inhabitants, the Johnstones, Jardines, Maxwells, Scotts, Bells, and others, for generations chiefly subsisted by spoil and pillage, and they were dreaded by the people of the neighbouring counties, whom they harried without mercy. During the prevalence of the contraband trade with the Isle of Man it was infested by bands of smugglers. The county contains the four royal burghs of Dumfries, Annan, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar, which, with Kirkcudbright, return a member of Parliament. One member represents the county, and in 1.839 the constituency was 1927. The Sheriff Court for the shire, and the Commissary Court, are held every Thursday during session: and the Sheriff Small Debt Court and Justice of Small Debt Court once every fortnight. In 1831, the inhabited houses were 12,365; families, 14,096; population, 73,770.