ARGYLE, or ARGATHELIA, a large county, is bounded on the north by Inverness-shire, on the east by the counties of Perth and Dunbarton, and on the south and west by the Frith of Clyde and the Atlantic Ocean. This county is intersected by so many inlets or lochs of the sea, that it is extremely difficult to obtain a correct estimate of its extent. It is generally said to be 115 miles in length from the Mull of Cantyre to the Point of Ardnamurchan, and its greatest breadth is about 70 miles; if, however, the Peninsula of Kintyre, or Cantyre, be cut off, which is 46 miles long by 7 at an average in breadth, the remaining continent of Argyle, which is 75 miles in length, is at an average breadth 35 miles, and added to Kintyre, the whole county makes nearly 273 square miles. The county has about 600 miles of sea coast exclusive of its islands, which are very numerous. The chief of these are Cannay, Sanday, Rum, and Muck, lying north of the Point of Ardnamurchan, and with Eigg, belonging to Inverness-shire, forming the parish of Small Isles; Coll and Tiree lying north of that Point; Mull, almost cut into two parts by a deep bay of the Atlantic, in which are the islands of Staffa and Iona, and an uninhabited cluster called the Treshinish Isles; Ulva, Kerrera, Easdale, Scarba, Lunga, Jura, Colonsay, Oronsay, Islay, Gigha and Cara, Sanda, and others, the computed surface of which will give to the whole county an extent of 3800 square miles, or 2,432,000 acres, of which 308,000 are estimated to be cultivated, 600,000 uncultivated, and 1,524,000 unprofitable; divided into 50 parishes. The population in 1831 was 100,937. As all the Islands are noticed in proper order, as well as all the parishes in the county, it may be here observed, that it is divided chiefly into five grand districts, namely, Argyle Proper, Lorn, Cowal, Knapdale, and Cantyre, which are not acknowledged in a political view, but by which its different parts are described and known by its inhabitants and by strangers. The north-east division of Argyleshire is rugged, bleak, and mountainous, the summits of the highest elevations being generally bare and barren rocks. These mountains, which are covered with snow during a great part of winter and spring, are intersected by deep, winding, and far stretching glens and valleys, which derive a considerable degree of shelter and amelioration of climate; for, as the wind is ascertained to blow the greater part of the year from the west and north-west, these mountains serve as stupendous screens to ward off the blasts. As the lower parts of the county, in the level tracts of which, along the coasts and on the banks of the fresh-water lakes, is the greater proportion of arable land, are singu-larly and deeply surrounded and, indented by the sea, the atmosphere is milder and more temperate than in these upper and northern parts bordering on the Grampians. The soil consists of gravel mixed with sand; of peat-moss, occupying extensive moors and low grounds; of decayed limestone and decayed slates, both of which are fertile; of a barren sandy soil; and of a light loam mixed with sand, and light gravel on till on the acclivities of the hills; but there are other varieties of soil both in the lower and upper grounds. Lime is found throughout the county, and in Easdale and Ballechelish are immense quarries of excellent blue slate. Mines of lead-ore are wrought at Strontian and in Islay, and at the former place a new species of earth has been discovered, called strontites, which converts vegetable blues to green, and has other chemical properties; but it may in general be observed, that whatever mines Argyleshire may possess, these have never been worked with great vigour or success. The manufactures are comparatively trifling, the industry of the county being pastoral; the wild and rugged shores are bordered by high hills and steeps, and the interior covered with stupendous ranges of immense mountains, some of which rise to a great height, and on their sides herds of black cattle and vast flocks of sheep are fed. A great part of the low grounds, now bare and naked, was once covered with forests, of which there are remains in almost every moss. Most of this wood was imprudently destroyed; yet there may still be 30,000 acres of natural timber, and several thousands of acres are now covered with modern plantations. The woods belonging to the Duke of Argyle are among the most extensive in the kingdom. The scenery of the county is remarkably diversified, and often grand beyond description. It is sometimes peculiarly bold, especially on the west of Loch Long, and on both sides of Loch Goil, where the coasts are steep, and the hills high and craggy. Near the north extremity of Loch Long lies the narrow valley of Glencoe, bounded by lofty mountains, and between it and Loch Goil rises the remarkable ridge popularly called the Duke of Argyle's Bowling Green. Immense glens or valleys occur, such as Glencoe, inclosed by awful precipices and stupendous heights, which are the very personifications of sterility and desolation. One of the highest mountains is Ben Cruachan, 3400 feet above the level of the sea, and upwards of twenty miles in circumference at the base; steep towards the north-east, but sloping gently on the south, and its summit, which rises abruptly, divided into two points, each resembling a sugar-loaf. Its sides are covered with natural wood, and shelter roes and deer. On the summit of this mountain was the fatal spring from which issued Loch Awe, according to tradition ascribed to Ossian. The story of the fatal spring on the summit of Cruachan, which, by the negligence of Bera, the daughter of Grinnan the Sage, issued forth, overwhelmed the valley, and formed the large expanse or lake of Loch Awe, is still preserved in the Gaelic songs of the district. Cruachan is the weather-gage of those who live within view of its lofty summit. Before a storm its head and sides are covered with clouds, and " the spirit of the mountain shrieks." In many parts of Argyleshire, however, the tremendous wildness is much concealed by the natural woods, and is every year becoming more so by the spread and progress of plantations, as well as by successful attempts at cultivation. But no improvements can change the mountains, some of which are interspersed with huge rocks and caverns. Many of these mountains were covered with black heath, which the extensive pasturing of sheep has caused to exhibit a pleasing aspect of verdure, enlivened by immense flocks of those valuable animals. Argyleshire is supposed to have constituted nearly the whole of the territory which belonged to the tribe called the Scots, whose name afterwards designated the whole kingdom; but it is chiefly remarkable as the country of the race of Fingal, the birth-place of reputed heroes of antiquity, and the scene of romance. In the well-known valley of Glencoe was Ossian born, and the traditions of the country are still full of the exploits of the real or imaginary heroes whom this real or imaginary bard celebrates. In this district, and throughout the whole county, feudal clanship existed for centuries in the most despotic manner, and even at the present day it is alleged that this spirit exists, though now restrained by law, in greater vigour than in any other part of the Scotish Highlands. The county was for ages, and is still to a very considerable extent, inhabited by the great Clan Campbell, who considered it their duty to rally round the Maccallummore, as they designated the Head of the House of Argyle, with all the ardour of kindred attachment, and who rendered the most implicit obedience to his dictates. Several branches of this Family were warlike barons, but they were all vassals of Maccallummore, and bound to assist him in all his feuds, without inquiring into his motives. But, the spirit of clanship received a mortal blow, as it respects its despotism, by the abolition of the hereditary jurisdictions in 1748, which was the first salutary step to the real improvement of the Highlands. Excellent roads were formed in every direction, villages were built in various quarters, and the cultivation of the soil became a subject of attention. Since that date a wonderful change has been exhibited both among the landholders and the peasantry, and the latter, though they cling to the associations of their ancestors, are not now characterized by that habitual indolence which was a feature of the Highlanders, when not engaged in feuds or predatory incursions. Steam has in more recent times given its mighty impulse to the improvement of Argyleshire, and the arms of the sea—Loch Long and Loch Goil, Loch Linnhe and Loch Eil, Loch Sunart, Loch Fyne and Loch Gilp, the sounds or straits, and the coasts of the Western Islands, are now visited annually by thousands, the magnificent and stupendous scenery at once surprising the tourist; while the influx of travellers, and the transference of estates to new proprietors, must all tend greatly to change the condition of a district which, for centuries, was almost inaccessible to the great mass of even the inhabitants of the Lowland counties. Argyle was for many centuries the see of a Bishop, whose Cathedral was in Lismore, an island at the mouth of Loch Linnhe. The jurisdiction of the Bishops of Argyle comprehended the county, including also the islands of Bute and Arran. The revenue of the see is unknown, as the Earl of Argyle seized all the records connected with it and the bishopric of the Isles at the Reformation, and those documents were either destroyed, or are preserved among the Argyle archives at Inverary. This county is now a Provincial Synod, composed of six Presbyteries. It gives the title of Duke to the chief of the great Family of Campbell, whose predecessors, according to the bards and sennachies, who were the ancient Highland family historians, were Lords of Lochow as early as A.D. 400. It is alleged that they were descended from a chief who assumed to himself the name of Diarmed, and hence the Clan Campbell are often designated the race of Diarmed; but Campbell appears to have been an Anglo-Saxon name, and conferred on the clan by the marriage of Eva and Gillespie Campbell, from whom descended the Family in all its various branches. After several generations, during the lapse of which the Knights of Lochow, as the chiefs were called, ruled in their extensive domains with regal authority. Sir Duncan Campbell was created Lord Campbell in 1452 ; his grandson Colin was created Earl of Argyle in 1457 by James II., and Lord of Lorn in 1470. Several of the subsequent Earls of Argyle make a prominent figure in Scotish history, especially from the Reformation down to almost the Revolution of 1688. It is remarkable that one of the distinguishing features of this great Sept for many centuries was an insatiable desire to acquire territorial property, and they succeeded in the most extraordinary manner, church lands and other estates being all seized and incorporated with their patrimonial inheritances. Archibald, eighth Earl, executed in 1661 on a charge of high treason, was created the first Marquis of Argyle in 1641; his son shared the same fate on a similar charge in 1685. The son of this latter nobleman was created the first Duke in 1701, and his grandson was the celebrated John Duke of Argyle and Greenwich, alike distinguished for his military and political career in the reigns of Queen Anne, George I., and George II. There are several Noble Families branches of the House of Argyle, besides baronets, and gentlemen connected with the county. There are two royal burghs in Argyleshire. Inverary, the county town, and Campbellton, and the Parliamentary burgh of Oban, joined with Ayr and Irvine in returning a member to the Imperial Parliament. The county is represented by one member, elected by the constituency authorised by the Reform Bill. In 1838 this constituency consisted of 1589 voters. In 1674, the valued rent was L. 149,595 Scots; in 1815, the annual value of all the assessed real property was L.227,493. Population of the whole county in 1831, 100,937. The Justice of Peace Small Debt Court for the County is held at Inverary on the first Wednesday of every month; the other courts of Sheriff, and Commissary and Sheriff Small Debt, are held the former on Monday and Thursday, the latter on Thursday, during Session, and during vacation on days of which due intimation is given. Argyleshire contains many fine seats, besides several magnificent and massive ruins of castles and strongholds, the chief of which is Inverary Castle, the princely residence of the Dukes of Argyle. Transcribed from The Comprehensive Gazetteer of Scotland, circa 1841