On a projecting ledge a former proprietor of the Rock, Sir J. Sheppard, formed a small battery, where some cannon were placed and discharged on festive occasions. The outline of this battery can still be traced,, and is often invested with antiquarian importance by strangers to which it has no claim. The remains of this battery are a great protection to this dangerous spot, and at the back a curious chamber is formed by an overhanging piece of rock. The summit of the Rock is diversified by clumps of trees and shrubs, around which the ivy, clematis, wild rose, and honeysuckle climb in rich profusion. The wild fennel is found here in abundance.
In a fissure towards the east is the Hermit's Chair. It requires some nerve to get into it, but when once seated is safe. Its name and seclusion may doubtless suggest sage reflection.
In Chudleigh Rock there is a large cavern, called the Pixies' Hole. It takes its name from being the supposed habitation of a diminutive race of Devonshire fairies.* The cavern is thus noticed by Risdon: " There is a cave hereabouts, which creepeth far under the ground, of which many marvellous matters are spoken."
* For further information concerning these tiny elves, and the opinions entertained, of them by the peasantry of our rural districts, we refer the reader to the Legends of Devon by Mrs. Bray.
The entrance is midway down the Rock, facing east towards the Glen, and can be reached by a scrambling path from the summit, but more easily from Lewell Park, or through the Glen from the orchard at the Palace quarry. The arched entrance is 10 feet high and 12 wide, and the extreme length is 135 feet, terminating in a spacious cavity. About 60 feet from the entrance the cavity diminished, and the interior could only be gained by creeping a considerable way. This narrow part is now enlarged; by .the removal of the alluvial soil. The large compartment is 39 feet in.length, 12 feet in breadth, and its greatest height about 50 feet; fragments of rock lie scattered about, and lights are necessary for an effective exploration.
From this principal cavity another branches off of greater regularity, and more vaulted appearance. This passage is 9 feet in breadth, 11 feet in height, and 72 feet in length, and is called Pixies' Parlour,* the floor of which is level. At the end of another passage a few rays of light are admitted through a fissure; there are some other fissures through which a passage can be effected to other parts of the Rock.
* A fete was held here on July 27,1840, in honour of Lord. Clifford, on his coming of age. The cavern waa brilliantly illuminated, and its sides were decorated with laurel and oak branches, interspersed with choice flowers. The glee, " Here in a cool grot and mossy cell, where rural fays and fairies dwell," was sung, and the whole scene was quite enchanting.
Some of the subterranean passages appear not to have been explored. Stalactites depend from the top, and are most remarkable in the large apartment, where a stalag-mitic mass of porous limestone of a round form, called the Pope's Head, has ever been regarded as the guardian idol of the cavern.
In order to be protected from the tricks that might be inflicted by the vengeful and mysterious occupants of this dreary abode, it was thought necessary to propitiate their malice by sticking pins in the Pope's Head! Now and then a wag of more temerity than veneration would rob the shrine of its offerings, and risk the penalty of his daring deed.
In April, 1825, the celebrated geologists, Professor Buckland and Mr. Northmore, commenced an examination of this cavern. In the alluvial soil beneath a flooring of stalagmite formation they found a variety of fossil bones, belonging to beasts of prey, similar to those found at Kirkdale (Yorkshire) and Kent's Bole (Torquay). It was in aid of these researches that a convenient entrance to the cavern was obtained. Dr. Buckland discovered what appeared to him a British kitchen, charcoal, pottery, flint knives, &c. Mr. Northmore by sounding found a great quantity of mud, at some parts two or three feet deep, at others six or eight feet, without reaching the bottom. He also discovered what he considered an oxide of manganese, lying about three or four feet below the surface, and continuing nearly through the whole length of the cavern. These gentlemen were highly delighted with their discoveries. Their geological creeds differed materially, and these researches only led them to be maintained more firmly. Who can decide when doctors disagree ?
Fossil bones, &c., are still met with in the sides of the tunnel near the entrance to the cavern in the mud under the ledges of stalagmite.
On descending into the old quarry, not far from where the lime-kiln once stood, there is one of those cavities commonly met with in limestone formations. This altogether differs from the Pixies' Hole. It is about four feet in width, and twelve feet in height. Water finds its way from above, and by the process of crystallization, columns of stalactite resembling the vaulted aisles of cathedrals, cover its sides. The effect is strikingly artistic. In addition to these, when first discovered, there were suspended from the top transparent alabaster-like stalactites, which from their brittle nature, and the desire of visitors to possess them, have nearly disappeared.
" The origin of the stalactite has been thus explained by the eminent chemist Liebig. Mould or humus, being acted on by moisture and air, evolves carbonic acid, which is dissolved by rain. The rain water, thus impregnated, permeates the porous limestone, dissolves a portion of it, and afterwards, when the excess of carbonic acid evaporates in the caverns, parts with the calcareous matter, and forms stalactite. Even while caverns are still liable to be occasionally flooded such calcareous incrustations accumulate, but it is generally when they are no longer in the line of drainage that a solid floor of bard stalagmite is formed on the bottom." Lyell.
On leaving the cavern the Glen is soon reached by a winding path through the copse to the edge of the stream. It is thus noticed by Polwhele: " From the east (of the Kock) a hollow opens to the view, with a stream rushing impetuously at the bottom of it, here and there checked in its progress by a great quantity of rude stones."
The Glen is about a quarter of a nule in length, and commences at the Palace quarry, where the scene is highly picturesque. For some distance down the ravine huge boulders lie scattered about in all directions, and the stream as it forces its way over them forms a cascade of singular beauty, not considerable except after heavy rains, but always a pleasing object as seen dashing and foaming between the trees. The rocks in the stream are deeply worn by the winter floods, and form hollows, known as rock basins; they are quite natural, though singular in form. The stream is called Kate Brook and rises on Haldon, receiving in its course the limpid springs of Waddon. It is divided in its course, and works three flour mills, the last of these formerly belonged to the bishops of Exeter. On reaching the Glen the little stream appears joyous and gay at its restoration to liberty; but it has again to be stopped by a weir in order to work the Chudleigh Bridge mills, after which crossing the Newton road it is lost in the Teign.
The Glen is embosomed with trees and shrubs, some the growth of centuries, others of light and elegant foliage blend and intermix, reaching to the bottom of the ravine and hanging gracefully over the stream. Towards the west towering above all is Chudleigh Rock, while beneath near the gushing stream is a green plot surrounded by trees, commonly called the Pixies' Ring. Surely these mischievous but joyous elves could not have a more lovely bower for their frolics.
Nothing can surpass the Glen in beauty when illumined by the mid-day sun, while its fierce rays do not overcome the refreshing coolness of this favoured retreat. During the summer and autumn months artists are often engaged for days together sketching its scenery, while some thousands of pleasure seekers visit it annually. Such scenes, rich in native beauty and variety, cannot but charm all who can appreciate the picturesque and beautiful.
Black Rock, another mass of limestone, is situated immediately opposite Chudleigh Bock, and rises to nearly an equal eminence. From its top is a beautiful view of the deep ravine below, with a peep at the distant country. The surrounding woods and thickets present interesting masses of umbrageous scenery. Ridges of rock projecting above the short turf afford seats for its numerous visitors. The soft murmur of the stream, far below, steals on the ear, while the crows issuing from the opposite rock amuse one by their gyrations. Indeed, it would be difficult to find a more lovely spot.
The extensive glades above Black Eock, known as the Riding Parks, are covered with rich pasture and an abundant variety of wild flowers. The hanging woods that surround them on all sides, beautifully harmonize with the scenery of Ugbrooke Park, from which they are separated by a terrace-like road, where splendid views of the country towards the south–already described–can be enjoyed, with the addition of Chudleigh Rock situated immediately below.
The Riding Parks terminate at a point called Mount Pleasant, where an inn or resting-place for travellers anciently stood. Tradition has always given it a bad character, and many absurd tales of horror and superstition are related concerning it. These appear to have had their origin in mysterious deeds of darkness which received confirmation of their having been perpetrated from the fact that several human skeletons were found, some years since, in a fissure belonging to the adjoining Palace quarry, thirty feet below the surface, and only accessible from above. Though thus hidden, it was doubtless well known to the rangers of these woods, and used by them as a place of concealment. The skeletons were probably those of travellers or sailors on their way to Plymouth, plundered and murdered at the house before mentioned while sleeping in unconscious security.
The Bishops' Palace was situated a short distance south of the town, at a place now called Palace or Place, adjoining the ascent to the Rock, and surrounded by rich pastures stretching from the parish church to the boundary of the Teign. The Palace and Chapel occupied the entire width of what is now an orchard, and probably faced the east towards the romantic rocks and hanging woods.
There is no description of the Palace in its palmy days; but, from the eftriy mention of it in the bishops' registers, it was probably erected at the cofiamencement of the 12th century. Dr. Oliver conjectures that Bishop Grandisson rebuilt the greater part of the Palace at Chudleigh.
This Palace was a favourite residence of the bishops of Exeter before the Reformation. In its episcopal chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, many ordinations were held, and many acts of the bishops performed.*
* July 25, 1382, "In cancellaria Dni apud Chuddelegh probatum fuit testamentum. Johis Uppecote." Brantyngham's Reg., fol. 96. vol. I. "In capella sive oratorio junta magnam Capellam manerio nostro de Chuddelegh." Lacy's Reg., folio 352. vol. 3. In Grandisson's Register (f. 210. v. 1.) we find "Camera cancellarie maneri nostri de Chuddelegh;" and in the same vol. (f. 108)–"In Deambulatorio Manri nostri ibidem;" In the 3rd volume of his register, we also find that, he collated to the vicarage of Landege in Cornwall, William Caer, present– "in vestibulo boreali Capelle Episcopalis de Chuddelegh."
In the Chapel of the Palace, Bishop Lacy admitted one Thomas Cornysshe to the profession of a hermit.
As fish formed a regular article of diet, the establishment had its fish-pond which was situated in Pond Meadow near the building'. It is only a few years since that the ancient flour mill was pulled down, and a new house built on its site. The flour mill was the necessary accompaniment to ecclesiastical establishments, as the early bishops and abbots had frequently to supply the wants of the poor, as well as to provide for their own numerous retinue. The burial ground lay in the eastern corner of the orchard, where some skeletons were dug up when the road to the quarry was recently widened. A well and spring, in the vicinity of the Palace, still retain the names of Bishop's Well and St. Mary's Spring.
All that remains of the Palace are a few crumbling walls, some stotie steps, and a portion of three apartments arched over with heavy stonework. These are now thatched and converted into cellars for the use of the farm.
In a line with the Palace, and separated from it by an open area, was the Chapel. These buildings were connected on the west by a high wall which enclosed the area. A corner of the wall of some height and great thickness is all that now remains of the Chapel.
The most perfect part of the ruins are the boundary walls; that towards the south-west, has in it some arched loopholes at regular distances.
After its alienation by Voysey the Palace was soon dismantled. It is thus noticed by the historians of Devon.
Sir William Pole says;–" Chidlegh was thauncient possession of the Bisshops of Exeter, where they had a dwelling howse & their park, alienated by Bisshop Voysye."
Wescote writes:–" Chudleigh ..... did belong to the Bishops of Exeter until of late years."
Polwhele observes:–"At the distance of a little more than a quarter of a mile south of the town are the ruins of that ancient building called Place, formerly a palace of the Bishops of Exeter; ..... part of which structure yet exists to remind us of their large possessions here in former days; tad to shew us how little they at prteent enjoy in a town for whi(Athey had purchased a weekly market and two fairs; and which they had variously enriched by their munificence."
Risdon remarks:–" The bishops of this diocese had a sumptuous seat here, with the manor thereunto belonging, part of which structure yet standeth; which only number-eth what large possessions once they had, and how little they now enjoy in this place."
Lysons appears to have visited the ruins, as he writes:– "At Chudleigh are several walls and arches which belonged to the Bishop of Exeter's palace at that place."
