CHAPTER VI.
UGBROOKE, the seat of the Right Hon. Lord Clifford, is situated east of the town, and comprises a considerable portion of one of those deep valleys in which Haldon terminates. It derives its name from a brook, called in the Saxon Wogbroca, crooked, or serpentine, brook, which rises on that barren hill. The course of the stream was formerly more crooked and winding, but a part of it was formed into a sheet of water which greatly adds to the beauty of the place. Ashwell gate, the principal en-trance,is about a mile from Chudleigh. The Park includes an area of 609 acres, within a ring fence. The Lord Treasurer, the year before his death, obtained a grant from the Crown to impark 240 acres around his house at Ug-brooke; this is the part towards the Newton road. His successor carried out his father's views, and planted the noble avenue which still remains. Prince describes Ugbrooke as " a pleasant and noble seat, much enlarged by the addition of a curious chapel and very useful apartments, and accommodated with a fair park by the first Lord Clifford of Ugbrooke. And his successor Hugh Lord Clifford planted the spacious walks with horsechesnut, lime, and other trees, which in their season yield a pleasant and fragrant entertainment to the passenger." The poet Dryden was patronized by the Lord Treasurer, and intimately acquainted with his son, whom he frequently visited at Ugbrooke. An avenue near Ashwell is still called Dryden's walk, said to have been a favourite resort of the poet.
" For here great Dryden once was seen to rove,
And Mantaan strains were heard thro' all the grove."
He dedicated his translation of Virgil's Pastorate to Lord Clifford, whom he highly eulogized.
The fourth Baron greatly extended the Park and surrounding plantations, adding several hundred acres on the north side, including the circular Danish Encampment, called " Castle Dyke," on the summit of a hill overlooking Chudleigh. The enclosure is quite round, the fosse deep, and the vallum planted with trees is perfect; the entrance is east and west. This Encampment, which is about six and a half acres in extent, was connected with a similar range of fortresses, extending from Haldon to the hills beyond Ashburton. Dr. Bennett, Bishop of Cloyne, thought it was British, and says that it is a part of a chain of fortified camps, extending along the coast, and connected with the Roman road.
The masses of oak and avenues of beech scattered over the Park are doubtless indigenous. Many of the trees from their size are magnificent specimens. The " Great Oak," above the Lower Pond, is of immense size, and covers a large extent of ground. Another on the Downs, near Long Thorn, is scarcely inferior to the former.
The three sheets of water which the Ugg now forms are important features in the scenery of the Park. The first adjoins the Ashwell gate, and was considerably enlarged and improved by the late Baron. It lies beneath a thickly wooded bank, and with its rustic boat-house has a wild and sombre aspect, greatly adding to the charming scenery presented from the road that rises above the principal lake which is always designated " The Pond." Its margin is adorned with various trees; some dip their branches into its level bosom, whilst others diverging from the shore crown the scene with deep woods.
At the end of the lake a rustic bridge crosses a clear little stream springing up from beneath a rock, which with its old lime kiln are nearly concealed by trees, while the roots of some, laid bare by excavations, fringe its edge and still flourish. This crystal spring is called Pitt Well, the waters of which, blending with those of the Ugg as they dash over some rude stones, form a pretty cascade, supply the Lower Pond, and after flowing on for about two miles fall into the Teign. This Pond, like the first, is sequestered, and has more the character of a dingle serving as a decoy for wild fowl.
On the left by a steep ascent over some rude ground the eminence, noticed before as rising on the south-east above the Chudleigh valley, is soon reached. On the northern part " Castle Dyke " is well worth visiting; on the south a panorama of unequalled beauty spreads in the distance; while, just below, the Rocks, woods, and Chudleigh, viewed as they are from a considerable elevation, appear altogether in a different aspect. Here, enclosed. by railing, is a tree planted by that eminent scholar and writer, Cardinal Wiseman, when on a visit to Ugbrooke.
A plantation on the verge of Lewell Downs winds round to the Lower Pond. The eastern part of the Park, includes the 240 acres enclosed by the Lord Treasurer. The scenery here differs very materially from that just described, and derives no charms from without. It is true there are occasional peeps towards Totnes. Its beauty consists in lawns smooth and verdant, groups of trees beautifully intermixed, deep shadows, and fragments of rock covered with wild flowers. Here the deer, of which there are about six hundred, are often seen reposing in calm enjoyment, or bounding off at the sound of approaching footsteps.
A road direct from the House crosses this part of the Park, terminating in a handsome, gateway opening into the Newton road, which is the eastern boundary. This gateway is approached by a splendid avenue, with two side avenues parallel with the road. In the height of summer these noble trees uprear their Gothic arches of grateful shade, repelling every ray of the sun's fierce heat. About fifteen acres of the Park are in the parish of Kingsteignton.
The Park was brought to its present state of perfection by continued alterations and judicious improvements. The sixth Baron was indefatigable in improving the beauties of Ugbrooke, which for landscape scenery can hardly be exceeded. The natural undulations of hill and dale are tastefully clothed with woods, avenues, and intervening lawns, whilst the outskirts are made to harmonize with the interior by plantations crowning the hills, and terminating the prospect. Everything has the appearance of nature, and presents the perfection of landscape gardening. In all that was done, there was no departure from that exquisite taste which a correct study of nature can alone inspire. In every direction simplicity, charms the eye, and defies the power of language to do justice to the charming scenery, or express the harmonious feelings its peaceful aspect is calculated to produce.
The following lines are addressed to the sixth Baron by the Rev. Joseph Reeve, who resided for many years at Ugbrooke as domestic chaplain:–
" ’Tis yours, my Lord, with unaffected ease
To draw from Nature's stores, and make thorn please:
With taste refin'd to dress the rural seat,
And add new honours to your own retreat:
To shade the hill, to scoop or swell the green,
To break with wild diversities the scene,
To model with the Genius of the place
Each artless feature, each spontaneous grace,
For, as you work, the Genius still presides,
Directs each stroke, and each improvement guides.
Hence thro' the whole irregularly great,
Nature and Art the wond'rous work complete;
In all so true, so unperceived the skill,
That Nature modified is Nature still." *
* Ugbrooke Park.
Ugbrooke was originally a small and inconvenient house. The Lord Treasurer commenced rebuilding it, but had not finished it at the time of his death, leaving by will the sum of £2,000 for its completion. He built the Chapel, which was consecrated by Dr. Sparrow, Bishop of Exeter, July 17, 167l, and dedicated to St. Cyprian. Hugh, the fourth Baron, built the present house in front of the old house, of which some rooms still remain near the Chapel. The architect was Adam.
It is situated on a slight elevation-near. the lake, surrounded by noble trees, and backed by flourishing plantations; the adjoining walks and gardens, within the enclosure, are laid out with taste and judgment; and to the south fine views open, and distant glimpses are caught of the blue hills towards Dartmoor.
The House forms a square, with embattled towers at the corners. Its general appearance is plain and unpretending, but suited to the adjoining scenery, and appears to advantage when viewed from the end of the lake, with its turrets reflected in the water, and the beautiful plantations swelling above. The Library and Chapel form a distinct wing, connected with the body by a corridor, billiard room, and conservatory. The offices are commodious. There is a handsome suite of rooms on the ground floor. The entrance hall is 30 feet by 24, plain stuccoed, which opens into the dining and drawing rooms, 36 feet by 24; beyond is a smaller drawing room, and a state bedroom in which is a bed of curious workmanship, designed and wrought by the Duchess of Norfolk, daughter of Edward Blount, Esq., of Blagdon, and given by her to her nephew Hugh, the fourth Lord Clifford. The curtains* are exquisitely wrought in needlework with birds, flowers, and fruit, and are thus elegantly described:–
" Let Phrygia boast no more her needle's grace,
Nor beds of state in tawdry colours trace;
But here her skill and all her art forego,
Here gaze with rapture, or with envy glow.
See, on the silken ground how Flora pours
Her native dyes, and opulence of flow'rs;
How blended with the foliage of the rose
The rich carnation and bright tulip blows:
The downy peach and clust'ring vine appear,
With all the treasures of the purple year,
While on her waving plumes of vivid green
Down skims the Paroquet, and decks the scene.
In rival pride the Cockatoos unfold
Their milky charms, and crests that flame with gold.
With half-expanded wing here sits the dove
In loosest attitude : intent above
She rolls her eye, where on exulting wings
Thro' fields of air her lively consort springs.
Here fresh as life in all their glories drest,
The rich Maccaws display the scarlet breast,
The painted neck of variegated hue,
And wings that shine with bright cerulean blue."
* They have recently been taken down and hung in a case in order to preserve them.
The Library is a beautiful room overlooking the Park, and contains a valuable collection of books. It has an internal communication with the Chapel, which, though improved at different periods, was left for the late Baron to add considerably to its size and adornment; it has also been much improved by the present Lord. The form of the building is oblong, lighted by windows in the vaulted roof, from the centre of which a beautiful silver lamp is suspended and always kept burning. The massive marble altar, to which the usual decorations are attached, is very handsome; and the altar-piece represents the Resurrection of our Saviour. They occupy the upper end of the Chapel, which is semi-circular, and cased with polished marble. On either side are marble niches containing statues of St. Joseph and St. Mary. There are other pictures here representing the Passion, Crucifixion, Death, and Transfiguration.
In another part of the Chapel is a magnificent altar to the Virgin Mary, with a fine altar-piece descriptive of the Nativity.
There are two side galleries or tribunes opposite each other; one contains a fine organ of powerful tone;
and the other is occasionally used by visitors. The front of these galleries are decorated with bass-relief representations of Adam and Eve driven out of Paradise;
the Shepherds worshipping in the stable at Bethlehem;
Christ at his daily occupation; and the Angels attending Christ. The body of the Chapel is furnished with chairs, which reach from the aisle under the side galleries. The tablets to the memory of the Lord Treasurer and the fourth Baron were erected by the sixth Baron; the inscriptions may he seen in Cliffordiana.
The marble font occupies a small and distinct apartment, the walls of which are covered with polished marble from Chudleigh Rock. On the wall behind the font is a small picture of Jesus being baptized by John in the river Jordan. The pastor is the Rev. P. Walsh.
In addition to the main entrance to the Chapel from the Park, there are several others communicating with the premises and pleasure gardens, thus rendering it accessible to the family in every direction.
Underneath the Chapel is the burying place of the family. It is a neat arched apartment with a chequered marble floor, and contains a fine piece of statuary, " The three Women at the foot of the Cross," in front of which are two candelabra which when lighted shew the various inscriptions on the tablets around; the most conspicuous is one erected by the late Lord in memory of his two infant children.
Bishop Quiva on the 8th of July, 1282,* annexed to the precentorship of Exeter Cathedral the rectories of Chudleigh and Paignton with a house and certain lands at Ugbrooke. " Precentor habet ex concessions predecessorum nostorum suo officio unitas Ecclesias de Paygnton et Chuddelegh, cum Manso et Terris apud Ugbroke." Voysey's Reg., vol. 2. Here the precentor occasionally resided. The House was then, doubtless, A dull and inconvenient abode, for we read of no important improvements in it until the time of the Lord Treasurer.
* From folio 239, vol. 1, Stafford's Register, we learn that thiss prelate confirmed a former injunction of Bishop Grandisson, that two thirds of the expenses of repairing the chancel of Chudleigh Church were to be defrayed by the precentor; the other third by the vicar for the time being. Oliver's Eccl. Ant.
At the Reformation, Ugbrooke was alienated from the precentorship, probably at the same time with the manor. It passsed to the Courtenay family, and appears to have been given by Sir William Courtenay, Knt., of Powderham, to his second son Sir Piers or Peter Courtenay, who resided there. He married Elizabeth, sole daughter and heiress of Robert Shilston, Esq., of Bridestow, and had issue seven children. Ugbrooke passed to his third daughter, Anne, who married Anthony Clifford,* of Borscombe, Wilts, and Kingsteignton, Devon, as previously stated. The estate passed to his third son, Thomas Clifford, D.D., who married Amy, one of the co-heiresses of Hugh Staplehill, of Bramble, in the parish of Ashton, which estate he acquired by marriage. He died in 1634, and was succeeded by his son, Hugh, who married Mary, eldest daughter of Sir George Chudleigh, of Ashton. He died in 1639, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Thomas, named after his grandfather; he married Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of William Martin, Esq., of Lindridge, and was the favourite minister of Charles II. He died at Ugbrooke in 1673, and his descendants have ever since made it their principal residence.
* In Collins's Peerage and Dr. Oliver's Cliffordiana, ample details are given of the origin and descent of the Clifford family.
Arms :–Chequy or & as. a fesse gules; crest, out of a ducal coronet, or, a Wivern rising, gu.; motto, Semper paratus.
In a curious MS. compiled by one Towaster, dated 1694, and entitled "An account of some noble families in Devonshire" (Harl. MS. No. 6861), is the following account of the Cliffords :–
" Mary Chudleigh, eldest daughter to the first Sir Geo. Chudleigh, married Thomas Clifford, the son of Dr. Clifford, of Ugbrooke, doctor in divinity,who was drowned in a duckpond. His son, Thomas, had issue by his wife two sons and a daughter. His eldest son, Thomas, was burgess for Totness in the Pensioners' Parliament, and there made Sir Thomas Clifford by King Charles II., who likewise elevated him Lord High .Treasurer of England. He married the daughter of Mr. Martyn, of Lyndridge. He had issue by her two sons and two daughters. His eldest daughter married Sir Henry Carew, of Haccombe, Bart. His second daughter married Sir Simon Leach, of Cadeley, K.B. He, Lord Clifford, dyed in the year 1673 at his house at Ugbrobke in the Romish Religion, his two sons surviving in the same faith."
It is worth observation that in this pamphlet, written by a Devonshire man within a few years after the event, no allusion is made to the rumour mentioned by Evelyn in his Memoirs that the Lord Treasurer died by suicide. The improbability of this rumour was ably shewn some years since by Dr. Oliver in the Gentleman's Magazine.
The peerage and estates came to his eldest surviving son, Hugh, in his tenth year, who possessed the title fifty-seven years, and well supported the character of a benevolent, hospitable, and patriotic English nobleman. The Park and its plantations claimed his principal attention. In the year 1685 he married Ann, the daughter of Sir Thomas Preston, of Furness, in the county of Lancashire, Bart. This lady brought him considerable property in Warwickshire, Derbyshire, Lancashire, and Westmoreland. By her he had issue nine sons and six daughters.
The third Baron of Chudleigh was the seventh son. He married Elizabeth Blount, who brought him a fortune of £4,000, paid at marriage, and £2,000 more on the decease of her mother. His father was violently opposed to this marriage, but may have altered his opinion when he saw the Duke of Norfolk united to her sister. During the short period that he possessed the peerage nothing memorable is recorded of him ; he died in the year 1732.
Hugh, fourth Baron, was born Michaelmas day, 1726, and married Lady Ann Lee, fifth daughter of George Henry Lee, second Earl of Lichfield, by whom he had eight children. This Lord built the present house, and was a wise master builder, for he did what is too often left undone, counted the cost before he began to build. The former mansion, projected by the Lord Treasurer, was by all accounts a long, straggling, and inconvenient habitation. After mature consideration as to whether he was able to complete the building without injury to his fortune and family, he began the work by pulling down a part of the old house, about the year 1760. The fabric gradually advanced under the direction of the celebrated Adam, and by a judicious system of economy he was prepared at the end of a few years to remove into a comfortable dwelling. " Pay as you go," was his principle; he was firmly convinced that nothing can be honourable that is not strictly just. Of all men he was the most punctual in acting up to the full extent of every obligation. Reverenced, honoured, and beloved, he died peaceably in the arms of his family, in the year 1783, recommending to them with his last breath concord and mutual affection.
In Hugh, the fifth Baron, were combined extraordinary beauty of person and fascinating manners. In 1780 he married Appolonia, daughter and co-heiress of Marmaduke, fifth Lord Langdale, but left no issue. After a long and lingering illness, he expired in the year 1793, in the bloom of life.
Charles, the sixth Baron, was born in Jermyn-street, London, on the 28th of Nov., 1759, and, was educated partly in the colleges of Douay, St. Omer, Bruges, and Liege. He married the daughter of Henry, eight Lord Arundell, by whom he had a large family. He succeeded to the title and estates, Jan. 15,1793, and was distinguished by his warm patronage of Art and everything connected with literature and philosophy. He also took a prominent part in the business of the county, and in training the volunteers, which was an important work during the long war. His services were highly appreciated, and fully portrayed on a piece of plate presented to his Lordship, in the year 1802, by the commanding officers of the Yeomanry and Volunteer Corps.
Hugh Charles, the seventh Baron, was born in the year 1790, and married Mary Lucy Weld, only daughter of Cardinal Weld, of Lulworth, by whom he had six sons and two daughters. He succeeded to the title in 1831. Lady Clifford died at Rome, on the 15th of May in the same year. He also died there, and was interred with her in their own Chapel in the Church of St. Marcello, where a beautiful marble tomb is erected to their memory.
The present Lord, Charles Hugh, was bom July 27, 1819, and succeeded his father as eight Baron, Feb. 28, 1858. On Sept. 30, 1845, he married the Hon. Agnes Catherine Louisa, youngest daughter of Lord Petre, and has had twelve children, eight of whom are still living.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PICTURES.*
Ferdinand II., Grand Duke of Tuscany, and an intimate friend of the Lord Treasurer Clifford, was, I believe, the donor of the choicest pictures in the Ugbrooke collection. Formerly this collection was much more considerable than at present: about 30 perished in the flames which consumed Mr. Anderson's premises in Covent Garden, London. Many of these I take to have been the Hunting Pieces mentioned by Evelyn in his memoirs, p. 438, vol. 1. " 18th Aug. 1673, My Lord Clifford being about this time returned from Tunbridge, and preparing for Devonshire, I went to take my leave of him at Wallingford House; he was packing up pictures, most of which were hunting wild beasts, and vast pieces of bull-baiting, bear-baiting, &c., &c."
HALL.
1. Charles, 6th Lord Clifford, in the uniform of the Yeomanry, Ramsey.
2. & 3. Colonel Taylor and J. Beaumont Swete, Esq., also in uniform. Ramsey.
4. Lord Ebrington now Earl Fortescue. Ramsey.
5. Sir Thomas Ackland. Ramsey.
6. Hugh Charles, '7th Lord Clifford. Ramsey.
7. Two noble Views of Chudleigh Rock, by W. Tomkins, in 1779, Died 1792, aged 62.
DINING-ROOM.
1. Sir Thomas Clifford ( afterwards Lord Treasurer) as Comptroller of King Charles the Second's Household. This eminent Statesman died at Ugbrooke 17th Oct. 1673, 0. S. and was buried two days after in his chapel vault. The picture must have been painted about the year 1667, by Sir Peter Lely. N. B. Sir P. Lely died in 1680, aged 63.
2. A Farm Yard near Antwerp. The painter's name " John, Sibericks 1661," is legible on the cart. This great Flemish painter died in 1703, aged 78. In the Journals of the Lords, 20th March, 1678, we read, "Ordered that John Siberchts, a Dutchman and Limner of Pictures, who, being a papist, ought to remove out of the cities of London, and Westminster, may have liberty to stay in town for some time for the recovery of some debts owing to him, before his removal out of this kingdom." N. B. Six months were allowed him.
3. Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of William Martyn, of Lindridge, esq., and wife of the above-mentioned Sir Thos. Clifford. Her Ladyship died at Ugbrooke 21st Sept. 1709, and lies in the chapel, vault near her, husband.––Painter Sir Peter Lely.
4. Catharine of Portugal, married to K. Charles II. in May 1662. She remained in England about 30 years, and returning to Lisbon, died there 31st Dec. 1705, aged 67. Sir P. Lely has given her the characteristic emblems of St. Catharine of Alexandria, the wheel and palm.
5. James, Duke of York, afterwards K. James II. This unfortunate Prince and Sovereign died at St. Germaine, near Paris, 16th Sept. 1701. aged 68. Sir P. Lely.
6. Her R. H. Anne, Duchess of York, and 1st wife of James above-mentioned. She was daughter to Edw. Hyde, Earl of Clarendon, Dying March 31, 1671, aged 34, her Highness was interred in. Westminster Abbey. Sir P. Lely.
7. K. Charles II. in his State Robes. Died Feb. 6, 1685, aged 55. Sir P. Lely.
8. Hugh, 2nd Lord Clifford, Baron of Chudleigh, in a Court Dress.
9. Fruit and Fish Piece. On the rim of the Table, we read "I. B. Schonier 1628."
10. . Thomas, eldest Son of the Lord Treasurer Clifford. He died at Florence March 29, 1671, aged 19, and his remains were brought over in an English frigate, and deposited in the Ugbrooke vault, July 28, that year. Sir P. Lely.
DRAWING-ROOM.
1. Rev. Thomas Clifford, D. D., Grandfather of the Lord Treasurer. Cornelius Jansens.
2. The Woman taken in Adultery, 8th chapter of St. John. Titian, died 1576, aged 99.
3. St. Mary of Egypt, an illustrious penitent of the 5th century. By Titian also.
4. Virgin and Child. Rubens. This great Painter died at Antwerp in 1640, aged 63.
5. Christ blessing little Children. Mark, 10 ch. 16 v. The inscription is "Peter Van Lint, 1643."
6. Christ presented by Pilate to the Multitude. John, 19 ch. 5 v. A coarse specimen of the low Dutch School.
7. St. Mary Magdalene. Guido Rheni: he died at Bologna 1642, aged 67.
8. Tribute Money. 24th ch. Mat. Sir Anthony Vandyke, who died in London 1641, aged 42.
9. Holy Family, by Gentileschi. Died 1647, aged 84. For an account of this Picture see p.. 247 of Pilkington's "Lives of Painters."
10. Lord Treasurer Clifford in his Study. Sir P. Lely.
1. Valley of Ice in Switzerland. By Francis Towne, of London. Died July 17, 1816, aged 76, and buried in Heavitree Church,
2. Hugh, 5th Lord Clifford, who died at Munich, Jan. 15, 1793, aged 37. By Downman, 1780.
3. & 4. Highly finished Drawings by Payne, in 1802.
5. The 6th Lady Clifford and her Sister (Mother to the late Lord Arundell) when children.
6. Hugh, 4th Lord Clifford, who died Sept. 1, 1783, aged 57. Downman 1781.
7. Tivoli and Metellus' Tomb, by Ducroc.
8. Appollonia, 6th Lady Clifford. Died Dec. 31, 1815, aged 60, and lies at Hazelwood. Downman.
Six pictures by Peter Roestrate, a Dutch painter, who died in London 1698, aged 71, viz. An Old Man Smoking, and his Wife spinning, A couple feasting on Oysters, A Cobler whistling at his work, A Surgeon coolly dressing the Leg of a Peasant writhing in pain, A Woman holding a Pluck, A Lady at her Toilette.
1. Over the fire-place, Anne, 4th Lady Clifford, and mother to Charles, 6th Lord Clifford. Miss Reid.
2. Chudleigh Lime Rock, by Varley. 1810.
3. A Drawing, by Prout.
4. View of the Simplon, by Nicholson.
5. View of Snowdon, by Varley.
This miracle of Art was finished from the designs and under the direction of Mary (Blount) who married Edward, 9th Duke of Norfolk, on 6th Nov. 1727. Her Grace intended it as a present for her nephew, Edward Howard, but on his untimely death, she gave it to her other nephew, Hugh, the 4th Lord Clifford. This bed is beautifully described in the Poem of Ugbrooke Park. A considerable part of the bed was destroyed in the dreadful fire at Worksop Manor, in Oct. 1761. The damage on that occasion was estimated at £ 100,000. See the Gents. Mag. for that year pp. 477–531.
Over the fire-place in the Library is a Picture after Vandyke, of most of K. Charles the First's Children, viz. Charles II., James II., Henry Duke of Gloucester, as an infant, who died Sept. 13. 1660, aged 20, Mary, who married William, Prince of Orange, and Elizabeth, who died in prison, Sep. 8, 1650.
Anne Clifford, Countess of Dorset and Pembroke, taken in 1670, aged 80, She is placed between her parents, George the 3rd Earl of Cumberland, and Margaret ( Russell.)
Over the chimney-piece, A favourite Dog.
An Engagement with Banditti.
In the Gallery between the Library and Conservatory, is a portrait of Hugh, the 4th Lord Clifford, by Keenan, and of the 6th Lord, by Pickersgill.
In a Sitting-room, there are a variety of family portraits; among these, the most striking is that of the Duchess of Norfolk. A Mastiff wounded by a thorn in his foot, painted by Schniders or Sneyders, the friend of Rubens; among other pictures in the Staircase we notice the Interior of the House of Lords at the passing of the Catholic Emancipation Bill (Ramsey), and the Installation of Cardinal Weld.
|
